Skip to content

Daves Chile Lives

Stories about long, narrow Chile, its politics, tortured history, diverse food and drink, but mostly a journey into the nature of its enigmatic people.

Menu
  • Home
  • 2010 Earthquake
  • Chile Peace Corps
  • Analysis and Opinion
  • Food and Drink
  • People
  • Places
Menu

Beef comes from the Jumbo!!

Posted on November 13, 2013

Several months ago I was having a discussion with Agustin, Ximena’s loquacious 6-year old nephew, about a barbeque he had been at the prior weekend, when he surprised me with his claim that he did not eat roast lamb “because it comes from a live animal”. Well, I know he loves grilled steaks, as do most Chileans, so to get to pursue this apparent contradiction I asked him “But, Agu, where does beef come from?” “El Jumbo!” he replied. Right, lamb from a live animal but beef from the supermarket. UnwittinglyAgu was reflecting the disconnect between 21st century urban dwellers, and the reality of our sources of food.
This disconnect is becoming more and more common to be sure, and it will grow in Chile unless the printed press and other public opinion media inform the public better of the challenges of agriculture development and the provision of safe, nourishing and reasonably affordable food . One notable source of information on agriculture and food in Chile is the weekly Revista del Campo published in the newspaper El Mercurio. Consistent with other parts of the world, agriculture development issues get headlines in Chile only when there is a drought, flood, or pest that significantly affects the price and availability of food. True to that, the recent unusually late period of freezing weather in the Chilean central valley should be reminding policy makers, politicians, and the public how vulnerable their food production system is to the vagaries of the weather and the process of climate change. As much as 68% of the fruit production may have been affected by the freeze (not necessarily lost, but to some degree affected), and producers and exporters are awaiting a response from the government with actions to minimize the negative effects on exports and farm and agribusiness labor. The government has the resources to provide financial support to farmers who lost this years production, especially in the fruit sector, so they can get through to the next production cycle. Temporary labor without work in the more northern regions will probably find work further south where the freeze was not as destructive and where farm labor is often in shortage. But, this will not be the last time weather causes agriculture losses, and the progressive effects of climate change require more aggressive attention to the changing panorama of what crops can be planted and where they will grow best. Just like certain field crops like soybeans and wheat are being planted progressively further north in the US, so is the grape industry in Chile moving into new areas of the country because of changes in climate and the availability of water.
So why is this important? Only fifty years ago Chile embarked on an intensive agrarian reform, the first step in a process that over the years has resulted in Chile becoming a global player in forest products, fresh fruit and vegetables, specialty food products, fish and seafood. Throughout this period policies were reformed that freed up imports and exports and that directed capital to the agriculture sector. Important institutions were created to support and promote the sector; INDAP to provide assistance to the small and medium sized farming sector, CORFO to provide investment for innovative sector projects often in partnership with the World Bank and InterAmerican Bank, and the Fundacion Chile, a semi-autonomous research and development institution set up to promote public-private investments some of which led to the highly sophisticated processing and marketing of Chile’s agriculture and food products capable of competing well on the global market. Throughout the process Chile’s universities, public sector institutions, and the private sector all developed strong links with US institutions, especially in California where similar crops (grapes and other fruits) and similar challenges (scarce water, increasing land values, changing demand for agriculture sector expertise and research) contributed to modernization of the sector and establishment of long term partnerships and technology-sharing networks beneficial to both countries.
Over the past two decades, Chile’s agriculture exports have grown faster than imports, with recent growth especially in dairy, pork, and poultry in addition to the traditionally strong exports of wood products, wine, and fresh fruits. Because of this progress, recent Chilean leaders are convinced that Chile should be a “world level agrifood producer”. To support this, President Pinera is sending to the Chilean Congress a proposal for legislation to reconform the Ministry of Agriculture as the new Ministry of Agriculture, Food, Fisheries and Forest Resources. He states that the country could move up into the top 10 of global food producers, demonstrating a degree of ambition and confidence really quite noteworthy. But it will not happen without a high level of attention from Chile’s future leaders.
Several days ago, as the size of the damage from the freeze was becoming clearer, the candidates in this year’s presidential election met in the northern city of Coquimbo for a public debate. The debate was set up to focus for the most part on regional issues. It will not escape most who are reading this blog that in a Country like Chile, where about half the population lives in the capital city, and 75-80% are urban dwellers, there is no greater “regional” issue than the growing of food and fiber, and the provision of bioenergy (mostly fuel) in the rural regions from Coquimbo in the north to the Bio Bio in the south, to satisfy the growing demands of the urban population and for export. But, not one of the candidates even mentioned the issues of agriculture, food and wood production, rural development in general, or even issues related to water and irrigation. This latter omission is most noteworthy because it is precisely the region between Santiago and Coquimbo (the 4th and 5thRegions) where future agriculture development depends on expansion of the irrigation systems, and the availability of abundant water, a huge issue due to several years of drought conditions leading to deficits in all the major water reservoirs in this part of Chile.
You could expect one of the presidential candidates, Michelle Bachelet, to be right on top of the issues of agriculture and food, especially fruit production. Bachelet’s ancestors included pioneers in Chilean agriculture. Her paternal great-great-grandfather, Luis Bachelet, in 1876 authored a seminal document on the art of cultivating vineyards in Chile entitled “Guia; Vinicultor Chileno”. He also reportedly brought to Chile some of the first root stock of French grape varieties now the backbone of the Chilean wine industry. During a visit I made to the agriculture school of the Universidad de Chile, on the outskirts of Santiago, the dean, Antonio Lizana (whom I had met many years before in Cairo, Egypt, where he was working on an agriculture development project and I an environmental policy project, both funded by USAID), showed me the bust of Bachelet’s maternal grandfather, Max Jeria, that they have set at the entrance to the administration building of the school to note that he was the first Ingeniero Agronomo (agronomist) to graduate from the university. Antonio also provided me with a copy of Jeria’s 1876 publication that I admittedly have yet to read.
With her genes deeply rooted in Chilean agriculture you would think granddaughter Michelle would be steeped in the problematic of rural development and agriculture. Well, as it turns out, Michelle Bachelet did not attend the debate in Coquimbo last week, so unfortunately her views and positions were not in the mix. Maybe we will hear more on the subject of agriculture and food production from her and other leading presidential candidates next week when they are invited to speak at the annual meeting of the National Agriculture Society (SNA). It will be a timely event to gauge the degree to which the next generation of Chilean leaders understands the links between agriculture, the growing global demand for food, the effects of climate change, and the requirements for technological innovation through modern research and education institutions. If they understand this, they are more apt to attend to the requirements of a modern agriculture sector and accelerated rural development in general.
With the recent climate related emergency in the agriculture sector still fresh in their minds, a serious discussion is needed to detail the national policies and programs required to face the effects of climate change and increased global and national demand for the very foods that Chile produces and exports with excellence. Chile has always been linked to US and other countries to stay up to date on productivity enhancing technologies, but the public research institutions will need resources and trained professionals to keep Chile’s agriculture growing, especially in the face of the complexities of climate change. Strong presidential leadership is needed now, leadership that knows that beef gets to the Jumbo for Agustin’s barbeques only because a modern agriculture invests, produces, harvests, delivers, and profits from working the land, conserving water, and growing the economies of rural towns and villages. Posted in Santiago, Chile on 10-19-2013.

David Joslyn

David Joslyn, after a 45-year career in international development with USAID, Peace Corps, The Inter-American Institute for Cooperation on Agriculture (IICA), The Chicago Council on Global Affairs, and private sector consulting firms, divides his time between his homes in Virginia and Chile. Since 2010, David has been writing about Chile and Chileans, often based upon his experience with the Peace Corps in Chile and his many travels throughout the country with family and friends.

Related

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Search

Archive

  • March 2025
  • December 2024
  • November 2024
  • August 2024
  • February 2024
  • December 2023
  • October 2023
  • July 2023
  • May 2023
  • December 2022
  • August 2022
  • February 2022
  • January 2022
  • November 2020
  • June 2020
  • February 2020
  • November 2019
  • July 2019
  • May 2019
  • April 2019
  • January 2019
  • October 2018
  • December 2017
  • November 2017
  • September 2017
  • March 2017
  • February 2017
  • December 2016
  • November 2016
  • September 2016
  • November 2015
  • October 2015
  • February 2015
  • January 2015
  • December 2014
  • November 2014
  • October 2014
  • June 2014
  • April 2014
  • March 2014
  • February 2014
  • December 2013
  • November 2013
  • October 2013
  • April 2013
  • November 2012
  • July 2012
  • March 2012
  • February 2012
  • January 2012
  • December 2011
  • October 2011
  • May 2011
  • April 2011
  • February 2011
  • January 2011
  • December 2010
  • November 2010
  • October 2010
  • September 2010
  • July 2010
  • June 2010
  • May 2010
  • April 2010
  • March 2010
  • February 2010

Recent Comments

  1. David Joslyn on Oysters and Marine-aged wineMarch 19, 2025

    Jesse, you certainly can't go wrong with a Chilean crabmeat salad or fried fresh congrio....and yes, french fries. Congrio frito…

  2. Jesse on Oysters and Marine-aged wineMarch 19, 2025

    Dave--great tale of the sea, food, wine and folks down there. Foodwise I will stick to cangrejo and the delicious…

  3. David Joslyn on Santiago: What’s New?March 18, 2025

    David, many thanks for reading, and for being a friend. When I get around to compiling this or whatever thoughts…

  4. David Valenzuela on Santiago: What’s New?March 17, 2025

    Hi Dave, hats off to you and Ximena for your unwavering love for Chile and your unrelenting quest to learn…

  5. David Joslyn on Santiago: What’s New?March 17, 2025

    Tom, thanks for being such a long-time friend of Chile, and of mine. Stay tuned for a journey into Chile's…

©2025 Daves Chile Lives | Design: Newspaperly WordPress Theme